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Дебютът на Раф Симънс за Calvin Klein

Дебютът на Раф Симънс за Calvin Klein

Дебютът на Раф Симънс за Calvin Klein
12.02.2017 iamfashion

Новият творчески директор на марката показа най-дългоочакваната колекция на нюйоркската седмица на модата Зима 2017 в централния офис на W 39 Street на 10 февруари.

Симънс демонстрира кураторския си подход към модния бранд. Но и още нещо: Calvin Klein е секс. Започвайки от унисекс дънките с тийнейджърките Брук Шийлдс и Кейт Мос до днес с провокациите #MyCalvins.

Calvin Klein е сред първите марки, които продават чувственост и лого едновременно. Раф Симънс продължава тази линия, но по комплексен начин. Той включва много препратки – филми, музика и разбира се съвременно изкуство.

Именно това стана и отправна точка в новата колекция на Calvin Klein – сексуалността, заложена в ДНК-то на марката, остава. Но маниерът й е различен – съвременен, сложен и по-прогресивен. В тази колекция Раф Симънс най-накрая показа онова, което в Dior не можеше да си позволи – напълно заличаване на границите между двата пола.

Ризи, прави панталони, прозрачни палта, гащеризони и сиви костюми, които могат да бъдат различени като женски и мъжки единствено, ако бъдат разгледани отблизо или носени от жени и мъже. Това са дрехите на новото поколение, вече отказало се от сексуалната принадлежност.

Любимите му художници и музиканти съпътстват Симънс през цялата му кариера. Този път той не изневери а себе си. Залата бе декорирана с инсталации на художника Стерлинг Руби, един от пионерите на съвременното американско изкуство и отдавна фаворит на дизайнера.

На подиума моделите минаха под звуците на песни на Рой Орбисън, Air, The Marx Brothers и John Barry. Не мина и без малък трибют на Дейвид Боуи – икона на много дизайнери от 80-те. Ревюто бе закрито от композицията This Is Not America.

Е, още ли приемат Calvin Klein като модна марка за бельо и джинси?

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