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Chanel и революцията в изкуството
Chanel и революцията в изкуството
19.08.2020 iamfashion

Tя разработва свой радикален подход, руши принципи и кодове в търсенето на свобода.

 

Габриел Коко Шанел – разбира се, че освен с модата, е имала близки връзки и с изкуството генерално. Няма как да се прояви иначе тази нейна толкова въздействаща и вдъхновяваща природа. През февруари в сайта Inside Chanel лансираха минипоредица документални филми, проследяващи тази връзка. Стартирала през 2013-та, видео колекцията разкрива света на легендарната жена Коко Шанел и по-специално особената й сензитивност и връзка с културния свят и хората в него. Едновременно наблюдател, но и участник в този живот, тя изиграва значителна роля в световната културна революция. 

Феноменална жена – Коко Шанел е в основата на революционното разбиране за изкуството и културата и го живее чрез многобройните си приятелства с хора на изкуството. Самото й ежедневие се е смятало за революционно за времето й. Това показва и първият епизод “Габриел Шанел и изкуствата”, който ни потапя в точно това й ежедневие, като ни представя калейдоскопично хората и явленията, които оказват влияние върху творчеството й. Авангардното движение в изкуството е в пълен синхрон с нейните художествени принципи. По подобен начин тя разработва свой радикален подход, руши принципи и кодове в търсенето на свобода. Затова Chanel е легенда до днес. Малката черна рокля е голямо предизвикателство за стила ар деко. Проследяват се и забележителните й отношения с Кокто, Дали и Пикасо. 

Четири са видеата в Inside Chanel, които проследяват връзката на Габриел Шанел с киното, литературата, поезията, танца и музиката. 

“Gabrielle Chanel and Cinema” представя как Шанел е повлияла с творчеството си върху киноиндустрията, как Холивуд е оказал влияние върху кариерата й, също и Френската нова вълна в киното. Разбира се, че значим момент е отделен на камелията като символ на модната къща и на Карл Лагерфелд. Легендарно е наследството от съвместната работа на Коко Шанел с режисьори като Жан Реноар (и кино шедьовърът му The Rules of the Game), Роже Вадим и Лукино Висконти.  Знакът на модерността, който оставя Шанел в киното, е разпознаваем и уникален. 

На прага на 20-ти век танцът отваря нови пътеки за изразяване на свободата чрез движение. Същото, каквото прави Шанел в модата. Габриел преживява дълбок естетически шок, след като гледа балета The Rite of Spring в изпълнение на руския балет под ръководството на Сергей Дягилев, с музика на Игор Стравински. Това представление е в тотален разрив с класическата балетна традиция и разбира се предизвиква скандал. Което пък предизвиква автоматично Габриел Шанел да се влюби в него. Смесването на танц, музика, живопис, декор и костюми е концепция, която е напълно в синхрон с природата на Chanel. Тя прегръща тази инвоативна визия и многолика форма на изкуството, като това е основата на дългогодишното й приятелство с Дягилев, което трае до неговата кончина през 1929 г. То произвежда и много колаборации като една от тях е визията и костюмите на The Rite of Spring. 

Изкуството ни освобождава от оковите на реалния живот – това ни завеща Шанел. 

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